The
capital of Andalusia is famous mostly for its romantic beauty,
as well as its well-deserved reputation for theatricality and
intensity. Of all the places in Spain, this comes closest to the
quintessential image of a place filled with passionate bullfighters,
coy ladies smiling from behind black lace veils, orange trees,
flowery patios, and gypsies dancing the flamenco with castanets
at their fingertips. In fact, though the exact origins of flamenco
are hard to trace, it is fairly established that it began with
Andalusian gypsies who mixed their indigenous culture with that
of their Moorish rulers, and Christian music.
The backdrop for the classic tales
of Don Juan, Carmen, and Figaro the Barber, like all of Andalusia,
shows the deep Moorish influence of 7 centuries, among other elements,
through its thick-walled buildings with heavily-grilled windows
and cool inner patios. In its 16th-century Golden Age, Seville
was given a monopoly by Ferdinand and Isabella as the port of
entry for all the wealth streaming in from the Americas. The effect
of this fateful appointment is a legacy of richly ornate buildings,
priceless art collections, impressive public squares, opulent
private mansions, and an undiminished sense of pride. This is
simply one of Spain's most pleasing and gorgeous cities!
Areas Within the Destination
El
Arenal: Bound by the Rio Guadalquivir and guarded by the
13th-century Torre del Oro, this was once a munitions and shipping
district. Today, it is dominated by the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza,
a dazzling bullring. The neighborhood streets are busy with many
bars and wine shops that are especially popular during the summer
bullfighting season. The east bank of the river is a tree-lined
promenade with excellent views of Triana and La Isla de la Cartuja
across the water. Other popular attractions include the Baroque
hospital and its chapel filled with Murillo paintings, and the
Museo de Bellas Artes' stunning collection of art from the Seville
School.
Santa
Cruz: The Old Jewish Quarter is a maze of white alleyways
and patios that is recognized as the city's most picturesque neighborhood.
Many of Seville's best-known sites are here, like the enormous
Gothic cathedral and its landmarktower, La Giralda. Also here
is the splendid Reales Alcázares, with the royal palaces
and lush gardens of Pedro I and Carlos V. North and South Americans
in particular are fascinated by the Archivo de Indias, documents
from Spain's conquest of the Americas. One of Seville's favorite
shopping streets, Calle de las Sierpes, is surrounded by market
squares that appear in some of Cervantes' stories.
Triana:
This insular area used to be the gypsy quarter and is now a traditional
working-class district made up of tightly-knit, flowery streets.
The feeling of independence is tangible and its excellent reputation
for ceramics and pottery is centuries old. The prettiest entrance
to the district is via the Plaza del Altozano, a square with wrought-iron
balconies called miradores. Close-by you'll find Calle Rodrigo
de Triana, a characteristic street with houses painted in white
and ocher. Its namesake is the Andalusian sailor who first spotted
the shores of the New World on Columbus' voyage of 1492. The 13th-century
Iglesia de Santa Ana is a lovely church with the Gypsy Font believed
to pass on the gift of flamenco song to the children of the faithful.