Lisbon
is older than Rome or any other Western European capital, dating
back at least to the 12th century BC, when Phoenician sailors
built a settlement atop São Jorge. In its Golden Age
of Discovery, it gained a reputation as the eighth wonder of
the world as visitors returned to their homes with tales of
riches rivaling those of Venice. That was because, as one of
the greatest maritime nations in history, the Portuguese capital
imported unprecedented wealth and exotic wares from the far-flung
corners of its empire. The influx of treasure enabled the kings
to build a magnificent city of palaces, cathedrals, grand squares,
landscaped gardens, ornate fountains, and monuments.
Today, after a decades-long
slumber, there is excitement again thanks to its preparations
for EXPO '98, which marked the 500th anniversary of Vasco da
Gama's journey to India, welcoming the world to a brighter,
restored city. In the oldest parts of town, pastel houses line
tiny, stepped alleys, while in the grand 18th-century center,
wide boulevards are bordered by black-and-white mosaic cobblestone
sidewalks. Everywhere you'll see the striking blue-and-white
azulejo tiles introduced by the Moors, who ruled from the Alfama
district from the 8th to the 11th centuries, after which the
Christians recaptured the city. Many visitors are happy to spend
the entire visit in the ancient hilly capital, but if you want
to venture farther afield, there are cosmopolitan seaside resorts
nearby, nature preserves, aristocratic country homes, and many
pretty villages.
Areas Within
the Destination
Alfama:
From the 8th to the 11th centuries, the tightly packed alleyways
around the castle were the whole of the ruling Moorish city
but, by the Middle Ages, wealthy residents fearing earthquakes
moved west, and humble workers inherited the town. Ironically,
the area survived the devastating earthquake of 1755 that crumbled
so much of Lisbon and surrounding region. Though no Moorish
houses remain, the quarter retains a charming Casbah-like layout
of tiny taverns, compact houses, steep streets and stairways,
and laundry hanging out to dry. The imposing Castelo de São
Jorge crowns the eastern hill and features a promenade with
fantastic views.
Baixa:
This "lower town" was created by the Marquês
de Pombal after the earthquake of 1755 as part of his reinvention
of the city. He linked the stately Praça do Comércio
beside the Tagus with the busy central square of Rossio. Neo-classical
buildings were built along the streets and named after the shopkeepers
and craftsmen who worked there. This is a popular meeting place
with cafés, theaters, and restaurants that is crowded
by day, but nearly deserted at night.
Bairro
Alto & Estrela: This hilltop district is one of the
most picturesque in the city. It was first settled by the wealthy
citizens moving out of Alfama, but by the 19th century had fallen
into bawdy disrepute. Today, it is a traditional neighborhood
with small workshops and family-run tascas. To the northwest,
Estrela is centered on the huge domed basilica and popular gardens.
Chiado is an upscale quarter where the affluent go shopping.
The mid-18th-century district of Lapa to the southwest is home
to embassies and private mansions.
Belem:
As the port from
which caravels set sail on their voyages of discovery, this
district is inextricably linked with Portugal's Golden Age.
When Manuel I came to power in 1495, he reaped enormous profits
from those voyages and spent a great deal of it building grand
monuments and churches in this district, two of the most famous
being the Jerónimos Monastery and the Tower of Belém.
Today it is a spacious, green suburb with many museums, parks,
gardens, and cafés along a riverside promenade.
