Turkey
December, 2000
Lynn Lojkovic
Turkey is Anatolia, the land of many mothers, in Greek the land
to the east. It's the place where goddess figures were unearthed
from their neolithic tombs at Catal Höyük. The Copper
& Bronze Ages thrived here, and the Hittites ruled a kingdom
that rivaled Babylon and Egypt. At the crossroads of the silk
and spice routes, Turkey is an open-air museum. Its beautiful
cities have attracted visitors since ancient times.
To enjoy this country fully an escorted tour is suggested. Ya'lla
Tours, USA does a fantastic job of bringing together all of the
elements to give the visitor a memorable vacation. An escort-guide
is there to meet you upon arrival, and attend to all the details
throughout the itinerary. The guides are expertly trained to colorfully
narrate so you can get the most from your experience.
Our journey began in Ankara. Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the father
of the republic moved the capitol here after the revolution in
1923. Modern Turkey immerged when Ataturk secularized the country.
He intitiated laws giving women the right to vote, adapting the
Latin alphabet, converting to the metric system, the Gregorian
calendar and western dress. Ataturk's Tomb high on a hill, offers
a great view of the city, and a chance to feel the pride Turkey
has for its hero.
A visit to the Museum of Anatolian Civilization helps to set the
visitor on the timeline that the rest of the journey will unfold.
A few hours south and a bit east of Ankara is the region of Cappadocia.
The Dedemann Hotel in Nevsehir offered comfortable lodging for
two nights while we explored this fantastic area. Rock formations
called tufa were formed by volcanic activity and erosion, creating
a unique landscape of conical "fairy chimneys". The
soft stone has been carved into villages still lived in. At Kaymakli
the early Christians burrowed complex tunnels over six levels
deep. Springs provided water in the lowest rooms, and airshafts
craftily hidden from sight allowed them to hide from Romans and
Arabs for months. St. Basel's monks and sisters carved monasteries
and cloisters into the stone at Goreme. These structures are decorated
with frescos of brillant color, depicting Christ and the founders
of the church. The seriousness changes to whimsy as the shapes
wrap their way throughout the valley. When we reached Zelve the
houses in their cone shaped towers with mushroom cap like roofs
made me laugh out loud.
Cappadocia is a great place to shop for ceramics and carpets.
Workshops are open to visitors, where traditional techniques can
be observed. Before leaving the area a visit to one of several
caravanserai is a must. Sultanhani on a misty morning was a step
back in time to the world of the ancient traveler.
Konya lies to the west as we made our way across the plain. It
is the home of Mevlana; the Sufi leader's sect founded the meditative
whirling dance of the dervishes. His teachings of love and tolerance,
and body of poetry is an inspiration throughout the world. A cassette
of the entrancing music played as we drove along to the spa town
of Pamukkale.
The Hotel Richmond in Pamukkale is a welcome spa style hotel with
thermal pools and message therapists. We waded through the steaming
springs that form the "cotton castle" waterfalls the
area is known for. The Romans because of the waters built Hierpolis
here. Domitian's Gate stands at the ancient street, as the temple
of Apollo on the hill is a landmark for flocks of sheep.
As we continued on the road to the sea we stopped for lunch at
a wonderful spot near Gerke. The Anatolian Restaurant is set among
arbors strewn with garlands of persimmons and pomegranites. We
dined on baked mushrooms with goat cheese, shishkabob and fresh
baked pita bread, delicious soups and fresh salads. Bottled water
is recommended throughout the country, both fizzy and nongaseous.
There are so many springs in Turkey some people are said to be
water connoisseurs.
Our next stop is the incredibly beautiful city of Aphrodisias.
The rich city was favored by Rome, and was a leading marble production
center. Artists learned the intricate techniques of marble carving
here. Features include the Tetrapylon gate with its unique spiral
columns, the temple of Aphrodite, the largest stadium excavated
in Asia and Tiberios' Palladium with the enormous reflecting pool
that cooled those gathered at the agora. All this is preview to
what we found near Kusadasi. We arrived at the Aegean, where the
Pine Bay Resort is set on a lovely private bay.
The day begins with a drive up the mountain, above the clouds,
to the House of the Virgin Mary, called Meryemana Evi. It is a
moving experience to walk where the mother of Jesus lived. Below
in the glorious ruins of Ephesus she and other historical figures
are remembered.
In its heyday Ephesus was the Roman capitol of Asia. It was founded
by Androklos, seen in the friese on Hadrian's Temple chasing the
boar of legend, surrounded by amazon women warriors. This is the
stuff that stirs the imagination. Walk down the marble roads,
passing the agora where all aspects of trade and entertainment,
food and drink could be found; the odeum and various temples to
the likes of the Vestal Virgins, Isis and the cruel emperor Domitian.
Interspersed are fountains and monuments to gods such as Hermes
and Nike goddess of victory. The Herculean Gate and the Street
of the Curates will lead to Trajans fountain, Hadrians temple,
the bathes and brothels, and the scenic latrine. Pass the noblemens
homes with their gorgeous mosaics down to magnificent Celsus'
Library, the third largest in the ancient world, next to Alexandria
and Pergamum. Keep going to the amphitheatre and gaze down the
Harbor Road that longs for the sea, now miles away. The river
Cayster silted the harbor over time, and the city was moved inland
during the reign of emperor Justinian in the 6th century AD.
Continuing north along the coast to Istanbul, we visited more
ancient cities before we crossed the Dardanelles by ferry. Izmir,
was Smyrna where Homer was born. Bergama is where Pergamum once
stood with its temple to Zeus, and medical center. Canakkale is
close to the excavations of the city of Troy. After crossing from
Asia to Europe we reached the site of Gallipoli, where monuments
to the men lost in battle during the last century now stand.
The trip culminates at Istanbul.
Here east meets west, and ancient meets modern. The five star
Istanbul Hilton in the new town affords a view of the Bosphorous,
outstanding ameneties and turkish bathes. Across the Golden Horn
in the old town we found the grand Blue Mosque and St. Sophia.
Two small gems not to be missed are the church St. Savior de Chora
with exsquisite gold and silver mosaics depicting the life of
Christ, and the tiny Rustinpasha mosque designed by the great
architect Sinan with incredible nicsean tile from top to bottom.
And the shopping, oh the shopping! The Grand Bazaar and the Spice
Market fill the senses.
All of this was made friendly and
pulled together by our guide Mr. Atakan Acar. He was indispensable
to our understanding of the depth of what we were experiencing,
and a timesaver in locating places and wisking us through waiting
lines. An escorted tour can be customized to include an intermediate
cruise on the Turquoise Coast or a longer stay at a beach resort.
Tours can be geared toward groups with specific interests, or
individualized and private. Young people can see history come
alive.
Turkey has so much to offer everyone needs to add it to their
list of places to go and things to do. Visit a terrific website
at www.exploreturkey.com to learn more.
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